I can recall when our taxi driver turned the car down the drive-way to the Nirarta Center how my eyes widened in amazement when I saw an enormous statue of Ganesh, the Hindu deity, placed firmly at the entrance ready to greet all who had arrived. Ganesh is one of my favorite deities not only because he is widely revered as the Remover of Obstacles but he is a man with an elephant’s head, and I love elephants. My first thought when I saw that beautiful statue was that I’ve entered the magic kingdom.

The Nirarta Center is built on a ridge that overlooks a long, winding river and is surrounded by lush-green, tropical plants, exotic flowers and terraced rice fields. There are six traditionally built bungalows that can accommodate up to 22 guests. Each bungalow has upstairs and downstairs and each offers a stunning view of the tropical landscape. In the backdrop of Nirarta, on a very clear day, you can see the peak of Mt. Gunung Agung, one of Bali’s most sacred volcanoes. Because Nirarta Center is situated higher up on the island the weather is cooler with gentle breezes and soft cumulus clouds that bring the tropical rains.

Nearby is the village of Sidemen that is within easy distance to some of Bali’s well-known attractions such as, Besakih Temple, the summit climb up Gunung Agung, Tenganan and other local villages known for creating traditional painting and weaving artistry. All of these are easy day trips and can be organized through one of the staff members at Nirarta. I went a little mad looking at all the beautiful handwoven silk and cotton cloths, jewelry, carvings and paintings that if I could have, I would have bought most everything in sight. And bargaining with the Warung keepers (shop-keepers), who enjoy the art of negotiating as much as the tourists do, was also part of the wonderful Bali experience.

The group organizer of the Wellness Retreat program facilitated a solid routine of early morning breathing and stretching exercises in the Great Hall plus mid-morning and afternoon Silat Kung Fu training, as well as some evening classes for advanced students. Breakfast was served at 7:30AM. It was either ala carte or buffet meals of traditional Balinese recipes prepared with Nirarta’s organically grown vegetables and fruit. After consuming a sumptuous and healthy breakfast each participant would venture out of the centre to go exploring nearby villages or sit down at the riverbank and enjoy a cool dip in the fresh clear water until the mid-morning workout session began.

After another good sweat from a vigorous workout we would return to our rooms, shower and rest a bit. At 12:15PM we would meet at the dining area for a luncheon feast of some more traditional Balinese food. Come early afternoon or late evening I would give a therapeutic massage to one of the attendees in a cute little hut situated on the ridge above the river. The sound of the cascading stream was better than listening to mood music and would literally lull the person into quick relaxation mode.

Part of the Wellness Retreat wasn’t only about having a great workout or receiving bodywork, we were also there to experience the Balinese way of life by participating in some of their traditional customs and rituals. On the first night we were entertained by a group of male Gamelan musicians and a traditional Legong dance performed by the nearby village girls and boys.

One day we were taken on an adventurous trek to a mountain temple where we would have to climb not only a mountain but ascend at least 1000 steps (or so it seemed) to reach the famous temple. What the Balinese call a gentle hike and was only supposed to take a half day to climb up and back, us westerners would call a “black-diamond ski run” which took most of the day to climb up and back. Yet that adventure was one of the most memorable and invigorating experiences of my time.

Our guides from the Nirarta center prepared a moveable feast so we could have lunch in the atmosphere of the mountain temple.

For each ceremony we attended or each temple we would visit we would have to wear the traditional attire of a kamben, a cloth (usually batik) wrapped around the waist (wrapped and tied differently by men and women). Women would have to wrap a sash tied around the waist, and the men would have to wear a headdress called an udeng. The Balinese follow the Hindu dharma path and on one of their religious holidays we were taken to the sacred temple on Mt. Agung to attend a ceremony. A heavy mist shrouded the peak of the temple giving it a mystical quality as worshippers ascended the ancient steps leading to the area of the main shrine. Once we were inside we found a place to sit on the ground and followed the example of our guide on what to do during the ritual. The atmosphere was super-charged with a feeling of love and great devotion. Throughout the entire temple the sweet fragrance of incense permeating the air induced me into a sublime state of mind. After the priest bestowed his blessings, we rose and went into another area of the temple and everywhere I looked there were dozens upon dozens of hand-woven baskets decorated with colorful flowers and filled with various food offerings. There was no shortage of those colorful displays which added to the ethereal atmosphere. The sacredness of participating in such an ancient ritual and receiving the blessing from the priest was truly an honor and an unforgettable experience I will always treasure.

Sunsets are especially grand in Bali as it occurs every evening around 5:30PM. Dinner time was an absolute delight and we all looked forward to this convivial atmosphere of great cuisine, affable conversations, and comfortable weather. But most importantly, each participant was precious and significant to the success of the Retreat as was the amazing generosity of the entire Nirarta staff. On our last night we engaged in a huge celebration with a delectable feast, dancing and being entertained by the staff members playing their traditional musical instruments.

Peter Wrycza, the owner and proprietor of Nirarta, is an affable English gentleman who along with his Balinese wife, Dayu, took exceptionally good care of us. Peter’s broad vision in creating an atmosphere of incredible beauty is further enhanced by his expertise in guiding people on a path of harmony and well-being.

My memories of Bali and Nirarta are indelible to say the least. If there isn’t a retreat taking place in Bali that you can join, then take some time for yourself to be by yourself in the magical paradise of Nirarta where Peter and his staff will look after you. Once you are there you can attend the twice-daily meditation practice that takes place in the meditation hall or have a private consultation with Peter who offers re-patterning or transformational coaching. For more information about Nirarta for Living Awareness visit their website at: www.awareness-bali.com

There is much to do in Bali or you can simply do nothing and just be present and alive in each moment in paradise. But this much I do know, be prepared to extend your Bali sojourn.

I will be back!

The owner of the beach and the business brain behind the idea to ban men, Fausto Ravaglia. had this to say: “This is not a lesbian beach. It is simply for women to be themselves.” Mr Ravaglia also stated that as far as he was aware, the beach did not breach Italian laws on sexual discrimination.

The council of Riccione on the Adriatic riviera was reported to have altered its bylaws to allow a section of its famed beach to be closed off and designated women-only. Another good reason to have a women’s only beach is for when Muslim women who go on holiday in the area could swim and enjoy themselves on the beach while respecting Islam’s injunctions against mixed bathing and displaying their bodies to members of the opposite sex.

Some women-only beaches already exist along the Italian coast, but they are visible from mixed areas.

The man-ban beach also restricts children, (sorry kiddies, you have to go to another beach to play with mummy and daddy or with the grandparents), and non-healthy food, like deep-fried squid and chips being replaced by a healthy menu serving fresh salads tossed lightly with olive oil, or an avocado tart, assorted fruit, fresh fish, etc. All prepared by a woman chef of course. Other amenities include manicures, pedicures, fitness classes and cookery lessons.

The beach owner’s daughter, Francesca Ravaglia, 22, who runs the Pink Beach, said: “Life is still quite tough for women in Italy. Men give us no peace.” She said that at Riccione, “no one stares at you to see if you’ve got cellulite. You don’t have to tie yourself up in a beach sarong to disguise your imperfections. Men are so critical. We can’t all be Miss Italy. Ms. Ravaglia further stated, “We hope women will not feel required to dress in this year’s bikini, wear make-up or always cover up that bit of cellulite with a slip. It is a place for Italian women to feel some solidarity.”

The only men tolerated at this double X chromosome haven are a hairdresser, the occasional male dog, and the lifeguard . “You need a man to save women in the sea,” Mr Ravaglia said. “It’s a question of muscles”.

Some other comments from patrons at beach No. 134 had this to say: “This is an oasis of female apartheid. They should put a eunuch at the entrance, like in a real harem.”

“It’s wonderful to relax, read or doze without hearing some child shouting “Mamma, Mamma” six hundred times” and without men ogling you all the time. Men think they are indispensable, but they are not.”

I was surprised to read dozens of comments from men who felt somewhat threatened that somewhere on the globe, women have a slice of heaven that doesn’t include them. Not some beauty parlour, or book club, or GNO at the movies. This is a real place where women can slap sun block on each other, and not have to worry that some pervy man peeping through dark sunglasses is having a fantasy. No what I mean?

Yet, in all fairness to men, I have only seen bad behaviour at some beaches from young lads who haven’t yet grown up and want to impress their friends with carnal behaviour. But, hey, everyone has to grow up sometime — some may take longer than others.

Next holiday, I’m heading for No. 134. See ya!

copyright by Adele Nieto 2007